mizchef

Archive for the ‘Vegetarian’ Category

In an Asian market the other day, I found a vegetable that I didn’t recognize. I knew from its appearance that it was a root vegetable, but it was one I’d never seen before. My first thought was, “This is the ugliest vegetable I’ve ever seen.”

It was dark brown, verging on black, gnarly, and hairy. Now, there are similar root vegetables out there that are similarly not of the pretty variety, such as real yams. Those are pretty dark and hairy. But that’s not what this was. Real yams (aka “true” yams or African yams) are white inside. These were purplish. I could see spots of purple in the broken or cut pieces in the bin.

Nor were these purple sweet potatoes, Japanese purple yams, or any other purple root vegetable I’d ever seen.

The problem is that produce in an Asian market is not always labeled—at least not in English. Sometimes the English name is not common, so even native English speakers have never heard of it. So, I was really at a loss.

I bought a piece.

The ugliest vegetable in the world on the outside was a gorgeous mottled purple on the inside. In fact, the color was jewel-like. The flesh had a sticky quality to it, like yuca.

But how to cook it? Since I didn’t know how it’s used in whatever land it originated, I just did the simplest things: boiled it and baked it. Boiling washed out the flavor a bit, as well as the color. (If you look at the photo below, the piece on the far right was boiled.) Roasting rendered them more flavorful but rather dry and mealy.

The verdict? The ugliest vegetable in the world tastes just like a regular white potato but is, in my opinion, less versatile.

If I see them again, I’m going to try making chips out of them. Maybe cutting them very thinly and frying them will make them more palatable.

But I still don’t know what they are. I saw one site that called them African yellow yams, but I’m not convinced that it’s that. If you know what this is, please let me know.

I created this pasta salad for the Spring Potluck for the New York Women’s Culinary Alliance. The theme was Back to the Beginning, to be interpreted any way we wished. So, in honor of spring, which is all about starting again, I made a completely green pasta salad. It was my first potluck with the NYWCA, so I wanted to impress. I don’t know if I did, but this salad got rave reviews the next day.

This pasta salad is open to many variations—you can add anything you want, as long as it’s green! It has several components to it, but if you’re willing to spend a little time on it, the result will truly be gorgeous, not mention delicious. Aside from the broccoli florets, I split the string beans in half, used only the green part of the zucchini, and garnished it with zucchini curls.

Gorgeously Green Pasta Salad

1 medium head broccoli
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 medium onion, small dice
1/2 teaspoon salt plus more
2 small zucchini, diced small
2 ½ cups cut string beans
2 cups peas (if frozen, thawed)
1 lb short pasta
½ lb arugula
¼ lb watercress
1 cup sliced scallions (white part only), divided
3 cloves garlic
1 teaspoon sea salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1 medium green bell pepper, diced small
½ cup chopped parsley

Garnish: zucchini, scallion greens, broccoli florets

1. Cut the broccoli into florets. Set aside as many “pretty” florets (they should be similarly sized). Chop the remaining florets, stems, and pieces. Blanch and shock the florets. Cook the remaining broccoli until crisp-tender; drain well.

To blanch and shock: Bring a pot of salted water to a boil. Set a bowl of ice water on the counter. Add the broccoli florets to the boiling water and cook for a minute or 2, until broccoli is slightly tender. With a slotted spoon, transfer the broccoli to the ice water to stop the cooking. When cool, transfer to a bowl and set aside.

2. Heat 2 teaspoons of the oil in a medium skillet; add the onion and salt, and sweat (cook over medium-low heat, stirring frequently, until soft and translucent. Do not brown.)

3. Zucchini: Saute in 2 teaspoons just until tender. Transfer to a bowl; let cool.

4. String beans: Bring pot of salted water to a boil; add string beans and cook just until tender. Transfer to the ice water and let cool. Transfer to a bowl. Set aside ½ cup.

5. Peas: If fresh, cook in boiling water until just tender. If frozen, boil briefly. Drain well.

6. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil; add the pasta and cook until al dente. Drain well and let cool.

7. Meanwhile, make the sauce. In a food processor or blender, combine the arugula, watercress, ½ cup string beans that were set aside, ½ cup scallions, garlic, salt and pepper. With the machine processing, slowly add the extra-virgin olive oil until a sauce forms.

8. When pasta has cooled but is still slightly warm, add the sauce and mix well. Add the green pepper, the chopped broccoli, onion, cooked zucchini, peas, remaining string beans, and remaining scallions. Mix well. Blend in parsley. Taste and adjust for seasoning. Add whatever herbs or spices you like.

April 26 is National Pretzel Day and I wanted to share my recipe for traditional Italian

Taralli

pretzels called taralli.

Just about anyone of Italian descent is familiar with taralli. Common all along the southern provinces of Italy, taralli are crunchy and pretzel-like and are eaten as bread or enjoyed as a snack.

These baked snacks are often referred to in English as biscotti, because technically it is cooked twice (the definition of biscotti). But the end product is nothing at all like a biscotti. In both appearance and texture, these are more like hard pretzels.

Believed by many to have originated in Puglia, where bread reigns supreme and bread-like products are abundant, taralli start off much the same way as other pretzels: they are shaped, boiled, and baked until hard and crisp. There is a subtle difference between taralli and pretzels, though. Pretzels are often made with eggs, which give them a “softer” crunch flakier texture than taralli, and the spices added to taralli make them the perfect accompaniment to meals.

I never had much of a sweet tooth, not even as a child. I got this trait from my mother, who would (and still does) pass up a slice of cake for a tasty cracker and some grapes anytime. This proclivity, plus a desire to avoid giving her family too many sweets, my mother has always made taralli for us to snack on.

The crunchy, pretzel-shaped treat and, fennel seeds give these biscuits their unique flavor and aroma, but sweeter versions can also be found.

Although taralli are eaten throughout the year, production by bakeries and home cooks alike ramps up around holidays. This Easter, I helped my mother make the taralli and here are some shots of the process, as well as her recipe, which appeared in my cookbook, What, No Meat? Traditional Italian Cooking the Vegetarian Way. Enjoy.

Taralli

Biscotti di Mamma (My Mother’s Pretzels)

1 package active dry yeast
5 pounds all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon salt
4 teaspoons fennel or anise seeds
5 eggs, slightly beaten
1 1/3 cups corn oil

Sprinkle the yeast into 1 cup very warm water. Let it sit until it is murky, about 5 minutes. Stir until all the yeast is dissolved.

On a kneading board, make a well of flour. Have about 2 cups warm water nearby. Sprinkle the salt and seeds over the flour. Place the remaining ingredients in the center of the well and begin mixing by working your way around the inside of the well with your hand and pulling in the dry ingredients, a little at a time. Mix all the ingredients well. If the dough is too dry, add a little water as you mix. Knead the dough for about 5 to 7 minutes. The dough should be firm but not tough. If it is too wet, add a little more flour and work it in. If it is too dry, add more water and work it in.

Cut the dough in half. Cover one half with a bowl until you are ready to use it. Cut off several 1-inch pieces from the other half and cover the rest with a bowl. Roll a piece out into a 1/4-inch-thick rope. Fold over the ends of the rope to make a criss-cross shape. Press the ends in firmly or they will come apart. Repeat this process with the remaining dough.

As you are shaping the last few pretzels, bring a large pot of water to boil. Place several pretzels into the boiling water (this will give them a flaky texture and a shiny exterior). When they rise to the surface, remove them immediately with a slotted spoon and place them on a clean cloth towel to dry. They should only take about 30 seconds to rise. If they don’t rise after a minute, nudge them a little with the spoon—they sometimes stick to the bottom of the pot. Boil the remaining pretzels and allow them to dry out, about 10 minutes.

As the pretzels are drying, preheat the oven to 375. When the pretzels are dry, lay them directly on the oven racks, about ½ inch apart, and bake them until the undersides are a golden brown, about 10 to 15 minutes. Turn them over and bake until their undersides are deep golden brown, another 10 minutes. If they burn quickly, lower the oven to 350º. They will not all brown at the same rate so keep checking them. Remove the ones that are done and replace them with others.

Serve them as a snack or as an accompaniment to antipasto or dinner.

Store the pretzels in a tin or loosely covered in a basket up to 2 months.

Makes 70 to 80 pretzels.

Once again, I was browsing one of my favorite ethnic markets, Patel Brothers in Jackson Heights, and found myself in the puffed rice area. (They have a lot of puffed rice, and I don’t know yet what they do with it all. If anyone knows, please enlighten me.) Anyway, next to the puffed rice was a bag labeled “puffed lotus nuts.” They looked like puffed cheese doodles or pop chips, so I bought some.

It was not quite what I was expecting (nor was it what anyone in my office was expecting). It’s appearance leads you to believe that it will have a bit of a crunch, like popcorn, or at least be like a wafer—crisp and melty.

But, no. When you pop one in your mouth and bite down, instead of getting a crispy little bite, it collapses into a chewy, sticky blob. Everyone I gave some to got the same expression on their face—surprise and mild revulsion. It was actually kind of funny. The flavor of these snack balls was, oddly, like

Lotus nuts before pan-frying

smoky barbecue sauce. I’ve never had lotus nuts before so I didn’t know if this flavor was way off or not. It was just strange. Someone suggested that maybe they were simply stale, but I don’t think so.

Then, I did a little research and found that they’re eaten two ways: 1) In curries and stew-style dishes and 2) pan-fried.

Lotus nuts after pan-frying

I tried pan-frying them in a little oil and discovered that they actually crisp up. They became like popcorn! The odd barbecue flavor was greatly diminished, which, depending on whether or not you like it, could be a good or bad thing. For me, it was a good thing. I ate a small bowlful of them and I think I’ve found a new favorite snack.

In terms of health, lotus seeds are gluten-free,  rich in calcium, and in traditional Chinese medicine, they are considered a cooling food. They are good for the spleen, kidneys, and heart, and have a calming effect that benefits those who get heart palpitations and suffer relentlessness.

Give them a try. Just heat a thin layer  of oil in a skillet, throw in a as many puffed lotus nuts as will fit, and stir them every so often until they’re lightly browned. If you want, season them with salt, chili powder, garlic powder, or any other flavoring you like. You’ll be pleasantly surprised, and you can snack on them instead of nutrition-less chips.

I’m not calling this recipe Sauteed Valor Green Beans because it’s something you should eat as a reward for bravery. The word valor is actually the Indian name for these particular green beans.

Valor Green Beans

I found these beans at Patel supermarket in Jackson Heights. It’s my favorite Indian market and I always find something in there that I’ve never tried. When I saw these beans, I thought they were odd looking. They looked like string beans but with thicker skin. I was curious how they would cook up, so I bought some.

Common sense would say to  cook these beans with Indian spices and ingredients. But I decided to cook them a little more European style. So, I sautéed them with some sliced shallots, salt, pepper, and garlic powder (because I didn’t have any fresh garlic). My suspicions were right—the thicker skin meant that they needed longer cooking time and some liquid to keep them from burning. In this case, I used some water and a little bouillon.

After they beans had softened, I uncovered the pan and let the liquid dry up. Then, I veered back toward Indian because I decided to deglaze the pan with a splash of coconut balsamic vinegar. I had picked it up at F. Oliver’s oil shop in Ithaca last summer and I haven’t used it much. (It’s delicious but coconut balsamic does have limited uses. I mean, I’m not going to splash some into my marinara sauce, ya know?) Finally, I mixed in some toasted slivered almonds.

The result was kind of a sweet and sour flavor and the crunch of the almonds really made it texturally satisfying. I can’t say I enjoy them as much as regular green beans because they have a different flavor—kind of earthy, where really green beans are sweet-ish.

So, here’s my recipe for Sauteed Valor Green Beans. Unless you are somewhere near an F. Oliver’s, you probably won’t be able to get Creamy Coconut Balsamic Vinegar, so just use regular balsamic, or omit it altogether.

Sauteed Valor Green Beans

Sauteed Valor Green Beans

½ lb. valor green beans
2 teaspoons olive oil
3 or 4 shallots, sliced
2 large garlic cloves, sliced
½ cup vegetable broth
¼ cup almond slivers
2 tablespoons coconut or regular balsamic vinegar

Trim off the ends of the green beans, pull off any strings, and slice them open (this might be easier if you cut longer beans in half). Chop the beans into half-inch pieces.

Heat the oil in a medium pan. Add the shallots and garlic and sauté just until they start to brown. Add the string beans and sauté over medium heat about 5 minutes. Add the broth, cover the pan, and cook for about 10 minutes. Meanwhile, heat a small skillet. Add the almonds and toast, stirring often, until lightly browned.

Uncover the pan with the beans and continue cooking until liquid had evaporated. Add the balsamic vinegar and stir; when the balsamic has evaporated, toss in the almonds and mix well.

Serve as a side dish or over brown or white basmati rice.

Makes 2 servings.

I had the original recipe for this porridge in my collection for a while but never gave it a try.

Multigrain Porridge

Not because it didn’t appeal to me (otherwise, I wouldn’t have clipped it) but because I so rarely make homemade porridge for breakfast. During the week, I never eat breakfast at home; on weekends, I never have time and so usually just grab leftovers. I still don’t often

have time, but I’ve been trying, whenever I can, to make a healthy, energy-inducing breakfast. So, I made some modifications, based on what I had on hand and my personal preferences. The good thing is that this stays well in the fridge for a few days, so I can make a big batch and just reheat it.

Mulitgrain Morning Porridge

Clockwise from upper right: Wheat berries, grits, amaranth, oats.

Adapted from “Multigrain Breakfast Porridge” by
Bruce Weinstein and Mark Scarbrough, Cooking Light, Oct. 2007

½ cup wheat berries, rinsed

¾ teaspoon sea salt

1/3 cup steel-cut oats

3 tablespoons regular grits

¼ cup amaranth

¾ cup coconut or almond milk

¼ maple syrup

¼ cup dried blueberries or other dried fruit

½ cup chopped walnuts or other nuts

Bring 5 cups water to a boil. Add the wheat berries and salt; reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer, partially covered until almost tender, 20 to 30 minutes.

Add the oats, grits, and amaranth and stir. Continue simmering until all grains are tender, about 15 minutes, stirring frequently. Stir in coconut milk, maple syrup, and fruit and cook another 2 minutes, stirring frequently. Stir in nuts. Serve hot.

This porridge will keep for several days in the refrigerator. To reheat, stir in a little more coconut milk or water until it reaches the desired consistency. Heat over medium-low heat or in the microwave for 1 to 2 minutes.

Makes 4 servings.

Well, another year is over. Hard to believe. Some people had a very good year. Others had a very bad year. For most of us, it was some good and some bad. But that’s life, isn’t it?

Lentils. Photo: Adiel lo

I wanted to take this opportunity to wish you all a very Happy New Year. May you be safe, healthy, and prosperous. May you enjoy every moment and appreciate all the good things that you have in your life, and even some of the not-so-good things because, after all, if everything is hunky-dory all the time, we wouldn’t be able to appreciate the good things.

I hope that all of you get in 2013 what you want out of life. As for me, I’ve always worked very hard and I believe that the things you want most are worth working hard for. I’ve particularly spent the past couple of years going beyond what I thought were my limits and knew was my comfort zone in order to achieve the things I wanted. I’m not there yet, but I’m hoping that 2013 proves to be the year I grab the brass ring. All I need is that right moment, that right opportunity, and the right person who will look at me and what I have to offer and realize that I’m worth a shot.

In that vein, I’m going to stick to a common New Year’s Eve tradition and have lentils and spinach for dinner. The lentils are for good luck and the spinach represents money.

Black-eyed Peas

Eating lentils on New Year’s Eve is an old Italian custom and is often eaten with cotechino, a type of sausage. Similar to this a tradition in the U.S. South, where black-eyed peas are cooked with ham hock or bacon for New Year’s Day. This dish, which also calls for rice, is called Hoppin’ John. Both of these dishes derive from the Medieval European belief that eating beans on New Year’s would bring good luck, and different beans have been used in different countries. A co-worker, who is from Panama, told me that a tradition in her country is to set the table with the following items: A bowl of black-eyed peas (aka field peas) with coins mixed into it, a small glass of water, a glass of milk, and a glass of honey. This is all supposed to bring good luck and prosperity.

So, with wishes for a wonderful 2013, here are my recipes for lentils with spinach and Hoppin’ John. Happy New Year!

Lentils with Spinach

2 cups vegetable broth
1 cup dried lentils
1 bay leaf
1/4 teaspoon sea salt plus more
1 teaspoon olive oil
2 large garlic cloves
½ teaspoon paprika
1 lb. spinach, washed and chopped
Black pepper to taste

Bring the broth to a boil in a medium pot. Add the lentils, bay leaf, and 1/4 teaspoon salt and return to a boil. Lower the heat and simmer, partially covered, until lentils are tender. Drain over a bowl and reserve the broth. Remove the bay leaf.

In a wide skillet, heat the oil; add the garlic and sauté 1 minute over medium heat. Sprinkle in the paprika then quickly add the spinach. Add the salt and stir. Cook just until spinach is wilted. Add the lentils and continue cooking to blend flavors. If it gets dry, add a little of the reserved broth. Season with salt and pepper.

Serve as is or with rice.

Makes 4 servings.

Hoppin’ John

1 cup dried black-eyed peas
2 teaspoons canola oil
1 large onion, chopped
1 tablespoon chili powder
1 1/2 cups uncooked long-grain white rice
4 cups vegetable broth
1 bay leaf
¼ teaspoon sea salt plus more
Black pepper to taste

Soak the black-eyed peas overnight with enough water to cover by 3 inches.* The next day, drain and rinse the beans.

In a medium pot, heat the oil and add the onion; sauté until translucent. Stir in the chili powder and cook one more minute. Add the beans, rice, broth, bay leaf, and ¼ teaspoon salt; bring to a boil. Lower the heat and cook, partially covered, until rice is cooked and beans are tender. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Makes 8 servings.

*If you can’t soak overnight, place the beans in a pot with water to cover by 3 inches. Bring to a boil. Remove from heat and let sit for 1 to 2 hours. Drain and rinse and proceed with recipe where it goes into the pot with the broth, bay leaf, etc.