mizchef

posted by admin on Jan 30

Chef: Mitchell Kaldrovich, Executive Chef,, Cape Elizabeth,

Maine

Chef Kaldrovich had an interesting journey from his homeland of Argentina to the outskirts of Portland, Maine. If I remember the story correctly, he was born in Russia to a German father and Italian mother, grew up in Argentina, and worked in Argentina, Patagonia, Australia, and Lake Tahoe, where he met his future wife. When he attended a French culinary school in Argentina, he was introduced to the wonders of seafood. As he put it, the word “scallop” in Argentina brings to mind “a picture of the shell,” not the mollusk itself. He heard of lobster thermidor for the very first time and became acquainted with seafood cuisine. Then, while working at Lake Tahoe, he worked with Maine lobster, Maine shrimp, and other seafood that came from Maine, and he fell in love with it all. So, when he and his wife talked about where they wanted to live, Maine seemed the logical choice.

And, so, the menu that he presented at the James Beard House was a seafood menu infused with Argentinean influence. His roots show, even through ingredients that were not part of his world view while he was growing up.

I told him that I have roots in Argentina as well, in a roundabout way. My parents lived there for a number of years and my brother was born there. They didn’t come to the U.S. until he was about 6 years old. Consequently, my mother’s food was always Italian (of course) but accented with Argentinean preparations. Chef Kaldrovich said that Argentinean cuisine is partly Italian, anyway. That is true.

Lobster Empanada

While I am, admittedly, not the biggest seafood fan, I am fascinated by Argentinean cuisine, mostly because I ate it growing up without really knowing that I was eating it. It’s a lot like the way I enjoy picking out the Spanish words/phrases from the language I spoke at home—I had always just assumed was pure Italian, but after I took Spanish in school, I began to realize that what we spoke was actually more like “Italglish”—Italian, English, and Spanish. When I began doing research on Italian cuisine for my first cookbook, What, No Meat? Traditional Italian Cooking the Vegetarian Way, and international cuisines for my second book (not out yet), I saw the Argentinean influence in my mother’s cooking. I now enjoy picking out the Argentinean dishes and ingredients from the food I ate, which I assumed was purely Italian.

His Corn–Lobster Empanadas were delectable, and his lobster bisque was visually appealing with the squirt of lobster oil on top. The Malbec mustard was a condiment that I coveted (I’ll have to work on a recipe for that). He also made a vegetarian version of the Slow-Braised Beef Tripe Stew because he had received ahead of time a request for a couple of vegetarian plates (although, it became a chaotic string of last-minute requests for no dairy, no garlic, no fish). I tried it and it reminded me of a stew that seems to be universal around the world, differing in spices. The squash and the garbanzos and beans reminded me of North African Squash Stew, as well as Italian Squash and Bean Stew. It was beautiful to look at, but it also had a comforting, homey quality to it.

Personality-wise, I found Chef Kaldrovich to be really nice and he obviously loves what he does and loves being in the kitchen. And I think he loves to make his crew smile.

Bread Pudding

Here is the full menu, along with the wines that were served. More photos HERE:

Hors d’Oeuvre

Oysters
Lobster Bisque
Poultry Liver Crostini
Corn–Lobster Empanadas
Maine Crab and Apples on Endive
Il Faggeto Prosecco NV

Dinner

Fern Hill Farm Goat Cheese Croquette with Beet Tartare

Butter-Poached Lobster and Tender Gnocchi with Baby Turnips, Chantenay Carrots, and Tarragon Beurre Monté
Manos Negras Torrontés 2010

Slow-Braised Beef Tripe Stew with Pork Belly Confit, Sugar Pumpkin, Garbanzo and White Beans, and Sofrito
Lake Sonoma Winery Chardonnay 2010

Serrano-Wrapped Salmon Roast with Grilled Leek–Seaweed Stuffing, Confit Roots, Organic Quinoa, and Malbec Mustard
MacMurray Ranch Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 2009

Gaucho Mixed Grill > Grilled Dry-Aged Beef Strip Steak with Chimichurri, Herb-Roasted Sweetbreads with Balsamic Syrup, and Housemade Sausage with Salsa Criolla
Crios de Susana Balbo Malbec 2009

Caramelized Chocolate Bread Pudding with Dulce de Leche Gelato, Hazelnut Brittle, and Espresso Chantilly
Churchill’s 20-Year-Old Tawny Porto NV

posted by admin on Jan 20

Over the last two days, I did two 12-hours shifts at the James Beard House for my internship. Here’s my report.

Patina

The first night, I worked with the crew from Patina restaurant in Los Angeles, headed up by Chef Tony Esnault. Chef Esnault is a protégé of culinary legend Alain Ducasse, and earned his restaurant a four-star review in the Los Angeles Times.

The theme of the evening was Black Truffle Extravaganza. The nine different dishes that were executed all contained black truffles, including dessert. There were thousands and thousands of dollars worth of black truffles in that place. At $800 per pound, I would not be able to afford even one knotty fungi. Then, his truffle importer, Christopher Poron, brought in about 6 or 7 more pounds in a little cooler bag. These truffles were huge and very aromatic. I alone shaved and cut into little circles about $1,600 worth of the black fungus. I would say that people got their money’s worth.

Aside from shaving truffles, I picked 300 little leaves off celery, laid them out on a sheet pan, and brushed each one with egg wash. Talk about painstaking. They then put them in a low oven, where they crisped up into little chips.

It felt like I was working in a traditional French brigade kitchen. It wasn’t that all the cooks were formal or that Chef Esnault, a Frenchman, cracked the proverbial whip, but it just had that “French kitchen” vibe. And it seemed as if Chef Esnault is an old-school kind of chef who really has no use for a woman in the kitchen. [See comments below.] He wasn’t mean or rude to me; on the contrary, he was very polite to me—when he addressed me at all. I think he was just indifferent to me—I could have been there or not, he couldn’t have cared less. The only time this changed was when he yelled at me to hurry up and put these teeny, tiny little crispy celery leaves on top of these little celeriac squares and julienned celery. This was not easy. Trying to balance fragile little chips on top of a small cube AND a julienned celery is frustrating, especially when you have an assembly line going and the plates have to get out. I felt like Lucy on the assembly line at the chocolate factory. I actually thought that while I was doing it, and it made me chuckle.

It was a loooonnnggg day. We never got an official break and we didn’t get any food until after dinner service. I had to scoot away to sit down for a couple of minutes at a time and snack on a few of the food items I brought with me. I finally got out of there at about 10:30.

Here’s the menu:

 Hors d’Oeuvre
Sunchoke Velouté
Potatoes with Truffles
Vegetable–Truffle Roulades
Truffle Gougéres
Champagne Louis Roederer Premier Brut NV

Dinner
Duck Foie Gras with Poularde, Artichokes, Frisée, Mâche, and Truffle Vinaigrette
Spottswoode Sauvignon Blanc 2010

Glazed Seasonal Vegetable Mosaic with Black Truffle Condiment
Vogelzang Vineyard Reserve Viognier 2010

Seared Day Boat Scallops with Potatoes, Leeks, and Tuber Melanosporum
Pazo de Barrantes Albariño 2010

Milk-Fed Veal Tenderloin with Celery and Jus Truffé
Neyers Sage Canyon California Red 2010

Poached Pear with Brown Butter Cake and Black Truffle Ice Cream
Pavi Due Sorelle Vin Santo 2003

While I refused to sample the veal, everything I did taste was delicious.  My favorite part? The Vegetable Mosaic. Simply delicious. I wish I’d gotten a shot of it.

Blackberry Farm

The next day was a completely different experience. I worked with the chefs from Blackberry Farm in Walland, TN. The atmosphere was much more mellow and laid back. And I was so happy to see that one of the chefs was a woman. Another volunteer was also a woman, though she left at about 4. That’s not to say that they were lackadaisical about their work; on the contrary, they were so prepared that it left relatively little for the volunteers to do. We got a nice long break, which went a long way toward keeping up my energy level. But we did have things to do and once dinner service began, it was the usual adrenaline-rushed craziness of getting the plates out.

I had written about Blackberry Farm when I was Assistant Managing Editor at Travel Agent magazine because they do cooking classes on the premises. They grow their own food and have animals on the farm from which they get some of their meat and their eggs and make their own charcuterie. They also brought along a few black truffles, which had been plucked from the ground only hours before in (I believe) North Carolina. While the French truffles were, without a doubt, flawless, these locals truffles were more perfume-y and fresher tasting, which is understandable.

Chefs Joseph Lenn and Cassidee Dabney were a pleasure to work with, as they brought a sense of fun to the work. They take their business seriously, but it was clear that their attitude was that you should whistle while you work. I like that. If you have to do something all day long, it’s best to enjoy what you’re doing.

I peeled and quartered little baby red and golden beets from their garden, shucked oysters (not well), piped field pea puree onto little pieces of crisp rice thingies that they made themselves, sliced biscuits, and whatever else needed to be done. Another wonderful dinner.

The Blackberry Farm menu was:

Hors d’Oeuvre
Biscuits with Pork Belly, Blackberry Farm Preserves, and Pickles
Capers Blades Oysters with Muscadine Mignonette
Blackberry Farm Charcuterie
Carolina Gold Rice with Field Pea Purée
Domaine des Terres de Velle Auxey-Duresses 2009

Dinner
North Carolina Trout and Beet Salad with Watercress, Preserved Lemon, and Trout Roe
Domaine Saint-Marc Bois de Blagny Meursault 2009

Blackberry Farm Pencil Cob Grits with Sorghum, Benton’s Country Ham, Pickled Ramps, and Hollandaise
Domaine Alain Jeanniard Les Saussilles Pommard 1er Cru 2008

Guinea and Dumplings with Poached Egg and Black Truffles
Domaine Durieu Cuvée Traditionnelle Rouge Châteauneuf–du-Pape 2009

Roasted Lamb with Blackberry Farm Peas and Greens
Domaine Paillère & Pied-Gû Gigondas 2005

Blackberry Farm Blue Cheese Cheesecake with Pears and Pecans

More Photos HERE!

posted by admin on Nov 5

On this day, November 5, 1986, the James Beard House opened in New York City. James Beard was a chef, author, cooking TV show host in the 19402) and a culinary educator, bent on introducing the world to the joys of cooking. He died in in 1985 at the age of 82. A year later, many of his friends, including Julia Child, turned his home into a public space for culinary events and the James Beard Foundation was founded. JBF gives scholarships (of which I am a recipient) and James Beard Awards, given in many categories, such as Best New Restaurant, Best Cookbook, Best Food Writing, etc. In the culinary world, receiving a JB award is like winning an Oscar.

The townhouse in the West Village is an interesting space. You go down a few steps and to the right is the reception room/shop. To the right of that is a passage that leads to the kitchen, which then leads out to an atrium-like back room, with glass ceiling and a glass outer wall that looks out into the lovely sitting garden.

James Beard's Chef Jacket

That back room was obviously an extension because the inside wall looks like the outside of a house: painted brick half wall, pipes, trellis-style wood on the upper wall. In that room, there is a staircase that leads up to the dining room. There are a set of stairs that lead up when you first walk into the house, too, but I don’t know where exactly that leads, since I’ve never been up there.

View from upstairs, atrium

Although it is now a public space and the main office of a foundation, it still looks like a home. Many of the original furnishings and touches remain and you can almost picture James Beard sitting there in front of his fireplace, or browsing his incredible library of books.

Events at JB House give talents chefs a chance to show off their skills. Sometimes the dinners are a showcase for a particular chef/restaurant; sometimes the meals are collaboration from different chefs from different restaurants. But the chefs’ dishes are built around a theme. I was there the other day for a Día de los Muertos Fiesta event, a brilliant dinner composed of numerous dishes that left me not only full and satisfied, but lifted and inspired. I’ll be telling you about that in another blog.

I’m very grateful to the James Beard Foundation for choosing me as a scholarship recipient and for being instrumental in making the culinary arts a respected and enviable profession and pastime.

Dining Room

For more information about James Beard, visit the James Beard Foundation site.

posted by admin on Aug 22

This year marks the 40th anniversary of Alice Water’s landmark restaurant, Chez Panisse. Located in Berkeley, California, Ms. Waters and her friends opened up the European-inspired bistro in 1971 on the premise that organically grown, local, seasonal products was the only way to eat. The first menu was: Pate en croute, canard aux olives, plum tart, café.The cost for this gourmet meal? $3.95.

The restaurant was way ahead of its time and Ms. Waters was, and is, at the forefront of a food revolution. Today, many restaurants—and home cooks—are chanting the same mantra. In 2007, Resaturant Magazine gave Alice Waters their Lifetime Achievement Award, and named her one of the most influential figures in American cooking over the past 50 years.

In honor of Chez Panisse’s ruby anniversary, an entire weekend of merry-making is planned, from August 26 to 28.

The dinners will be prepared and served on Saturday, August 27, 2011, in private homes throughout the Bay Area in support of the Edible Schoolyard project, which Alice Waters is involved with (click HERE for details on the project).

Well-known writer, China specialist and former Dean of the Graduate School of Journalism at UC Berkeley Orville Schell and his wife, filmmaker Baifang Liu, host a Roman dinner à la Chez Panisse in their Berkeley hills home. The meal will be prepared by Chez Panisse alumna Mona Talbott and Rome Sustainable Food Project alumni. Home to the cutting meadow for Chez Panisse Restaurant, the dinner will be held in the exceptionally beautiful wildflower and produce garden. $500 per person. This dinner is fully reserved, e-mail 40th@chezpanissefoundation.org to request that your name be added to the waiting list.

Sicilian Wild Boar Roast 

Discover the heart of San Francisco’s South of Market at artist and Blacksmith Angelo Garro’s Renaissance Forge. Dinner will be foraged and prepared by Angelo Garro and Chez Panisse alumna Melissa Fernandez. Co-hosted by Boz and Dominique Scaggs with special guest Davia Nelson of NPR’s Kitchen Sisters. $1500 per person. This dinner is fully reserved, e-mail 40th@chezpanissefoundation.orgto request that your name be added to the waiting list.

A Napa Garden Party

Supper under the fig trees with a wood-oven dinner from Chez Panisse cookbook authors Patty Curtan and Kelsie Kerr with Cowgirl Creamery’s Peggy Smith and Sue Conley. Featuring special guest Margrit Mondavi at the Napa home of Patty Curtan and Oxbow School Director Stephen Thomas. $500 per person. This dinner is fully reserved, e-mail 40th@chezpanissefoundation.org to request that your name be added to the waiting list.

Provençe in California

A Provençal-inspired meal by Traci Des Jardins served at the historic Plowman house in the Berkeley hills. Hosted by Ross Levy and Daphne Miller, author of The Jungle Effect, with special guest author Raj Patel. Wines will be provided by Scribe Winery and wildflower arrangements by artist Louesa Roebuck.  $500 per person. This dinner is fully reserved, e-mail 40th@chezpanissefoundation.org to request that your name be added to the waiting list.

Supper in the Pantry

Travel back in time to the era of hidden salons and supper clubs at this dinner of artists and art, hosted by Sam Hamilton and Jennifer Chaiken, in the illustrious San Francisco interior store MARCH. Tableware designed especially for the event, with hand-crafted breakfast pantry baskets especially prepared for each guest. Dinner will be roasted in the carriage house by Chez Panisse alum Brian Espinoza. $1,000 per person.  This dinner is fully reserved, e-mail 40th@chezpanissefoundation.org to request that your name be added to the waiting list.

Pig Roast!

Join us for a backyard pig roast at the home of Michael Pollan and Judith Belzer. Pitmasters Jack Hitt, Michael Pollan, and Chez Panisse alumna Samin Nosrat will slow cook a local, pastured hog over smoldering hickory for twenty-four hours preceding the event on site in Pollan’s yard. This is casual, backyard fare, folks. Dig in! $1000 per person. This dinner is fully reserved, e-mail 40th@chezpanissefoundation.org to request that your name be added to the waiting list.

¡Flamenco y Paella!

Spanish enthusiast, wine importer (Beaune Imports), and former Chez Panisse restaurant chef Michael Sullivan and Chez Panisse alum Anthony Sueuga prepare a giant Spanish Paella over the fire at this hand-crafted Berkeley hills home. Flamenco on the terrace overlooking the Bay. Hosted by Michael and Sylvie Sullivan at the home of Anthony and Daniella Sueuga. $500 per person. This dinner is fully reserved, e-mail 40th@chezpanissefoundation.org to request that your name be added to the waiting list.

Nose-To-Tail

San Francisco chef Chris Kronner, formerly of Bar Tartine, cooks up a carnivorous feast at the home of Jane White in North Berkeley. Hors d’œuvres in the garden with special guest, urban farmer and author Novella Carpenter. $500 per person. This dinner is fully reserved, e-mail 40th@chezpanissefoundation.org to request that your name be added to the waiting list.

Supper in a Jewel Box 

Sip champagne in the garden of the Russian Hill house of cookbook author and food writer Peggy Knickerbocker and Robert Fisher. Then on to a sublime Italian meal featuring fritto misto, pork tonnato, and wild-herb-wrapped salmon prepared by Chez Panisse Famille members Christopher Hirsheimer of Canal House Cooking, Niloufer Ichaporia King, and Peggy Knickerbocker. $500 per person. This dinner is fully reserved, e-mail 40th@chezpanissefoundation.org to request that your name be added to the waiting list.

Omedetai!

A Japanese dinner of fishes, plucked from the waters of Northern California. Sake and ume shu in the garden, followed by sashimi and simmered, pickled and fried dishes. In the Berkeley hills home and artists’ studio of Stephen Walrod and Lauren McIntosh of Tail of the Yak. Prepared by Chez Panisse alum Sylvan Brackett of Peko Peko catering and Tokyo’s Yuri Nomura. $500 per person. This dinner is fully reserved, e-mail 40th@chezpanissefoundation.org to request that your name be added to the waiting list.

Carciofi alla Giudia

A Roman Jewish meal prepared by Christopher Lee, former Chez Panisse downstairs chef, food historian and award winning author Joan Nathan and Jessica Theroux with guest chef Nancy Silverton. Danny and Hilary Goldstine host in their beautiful home, nestled in the Berkeley hills. With special guest Daniel Ellsberg. A Negroni toast in the garden with Alice Waters before dinner. $2000 per person. This dinner is fully reserved, e-mail 40th@chezpanissefoundation.org to request that your name be added to the waiting list.

Shrimp Boil!

A Shrimp Boil with Southern Star Scott Peacock at the home of Alice Waters. Alice and her daughter Fanny Singer will host a true Alabama style shrimp boil prepared by James Beard Award-winning chef Scott Peacock. Served in the garden, replete with boiling cauldrons and fried corn bread with sorghum syrup! Special performance of American folk songs by internationally acclaimed countertenor, David Daniels. $2000 per person. Thursday August 25th. This dinner is fully reserved, e-mail 40th@chezpanissefoundation.org to request that your name be added to the waiting list.

Alice Waters at Chez Panisse in 1975

To reserve a seat email 40th@chezpanissefoundation.org or call Krissa Nichols at 510-843-3800. For more information on the anniversary gala, visit the Chez Panisse anniversary site.

Happy Anniversary, Chez Panisse, and congratulations, Alice Waters, for daring to bring to America the concept of organic, fresh, and local cuisine. Brava!

posted by admin on Oct 7

Fluffernutter

Friday, October 8, is National Fluffernutter Day. Yep, that fluffy marshmallow and peanut butter sandwich you remember from childhood. Marshmallow Fluff was actually invented in 1917 by Archibald Query in his basement; by 1930, it had become a household product. In 1930, New Englanders could tune into a weekly radio program called “Flufferettes,” which featured comedy skits, music, and dramas (click on the link to hear the theme song). Today, it continues to be a supermarket staple and is often used in the American snack favorite Marshmallow Fluff Treats, otherwise known as Rice Crispy Treats.

Reviews

I got a really nice review over at Savvy Vegetarian. Even though she calls me Rinaldi at one point, the reviewer seemed to really have paid attention to the recipes and what I was trying to put out there. So, a big “thank you” to Savvy Vegetarian.

Bake Sales

The place where I work has a bunch of bake sales going on to raise money for Breast Cancer Awareness Month (October), and I going to be put to work making pasta salad for my department’s bake sale. My brain is already at work trying to figure out how I want to approach this.

While we’re on the subject of breast cancer, please help underprivileged women get free breast cancer screenings by clicking the button at the Breast Cancer Site. It’s EASY and FREE, and will take literally 2 seconds.

So, that’s it for this week. Have a great week, and have yourself a nice fluffernutter sandwich.

Peace.

posted by admin on Sep 9

Hi, all. If you’ve joined me here before, you know that I consider it my duty as a foodie and a food writer to experience local cuisine whenever I go anywhere. You know, when in Rome…

This time, I was visiting friends in Alabama, and here’s my foodie report.

Read the rest of this entry »

posted by admin on Jul 23

Hi, all. Well, this past Saturday was my cooking demo for Van Duzer Days on Staten Island. First, I want to thank my hosts, the ladies of Bent Pages bookstores, Robin and Katie. They were great and very supportive throughout the afternoon. And they were kind enough to provide me with a hibachi for the occasion.

Read the rest of this entry »

posted by admin on Jul 16

Hi, all. This week’s blog is going to be a quickie. It’s Friday night and I suddenly realized, “Oh, I have to blog!” But I can’t expound on the joys of cooking this week.

Tomorrow (Saturday) is my cooking demo on Van Duzer St. on Staten Island for the month-long street fair called Van Duzer Days. I’m going to be whipping up a couple of dishes from my cookbook and serving up samples.

And why does this affect what I’m doing on Friday night? Because when one does a cooking demo (or any kind of cooking anywhere outside of one’s home), there is a lot of preparation to be done. I have to get everything I need ready for tomorrow: Knives, cutting board, apron and towels, utensils, bowls, paper towels, bags, hand sanitizer, etc. And because it’s also a book signing: Books, bookmarks, postcards, etc. And because it’s going to be 1,000 degrees: Chapstick, sunblock, water, etc. Then, tomorrow I have to get all my ingredients together.

People, this is what being a personal chef is all about—bringing everything in creation that you need to cook multiple meals for multiple people. And this is nothing. I’m only cooking two (very simple) dishes on a hibachi. This doesn’t include all the pots, pans, cleaning products, labeling products, and other things that you’ll need during a cooking session. It ain’t easy. It’s a tough business to be in, no matter how much you love to cook.

Anyway, thanks for checking in. Wish me luck and I’ll see you next week. Stay cool—preferrably in a pool or at the beach!

posted by admin on Apr 10

Hi, folks. At long last, my cookbook, What, No Meat? Traditional Italian Cooking the Vegetarian Way, has been published!!  Well, technically, it was already published, but the new edition by Bedazzled Ink is out.

It was a lot of work but it’s finally done. Now comes the task of marketing. It’s not a task I’m fond of, but it’s a necessary evil.

Anyway, if you’re interested in a copy, it’s available from the publisher HERE or at any online (and possibly a few brick-and-mortar) booksellers. Of those, I personally recommend Barnes & Noble, not Amazon (they’re the evil empire).  BUT, if you order from Bedazzled’s bookstore, Book Peddler, you can get 5% off the order. Just put the code NOMEAT in the Redemption Code box at checkout. E-books are 10% off.

Okay, off to celebrate. Have a wonderful week!

posted by admin on Feb 5

Hi, gang. I hear sales of big-screen TVs have gone up recently. Why? Because it’s SUPERBOWL TIME! This Sunday, February 7 is Superbowl Sunday and people all over the country are gearing up with new sets, stocking up their refrigerators and coolers with beer, and planning their munchies spread.

This year, it’s the Indianapolis Colts vs. the New Orleans Saints. And since this is the first time in the team’s history that the Saints are going to the Superbowl, I’m sure many New Orleanians and Louisianans are going to party hardy this weekend.

Now, I won’t claim to know much about football, but if you’re having a Superbowl or tailgate party, you’ve come to the right place. Let’s see what’s on the menu…

Read the rest of this entry »