mizchef

posted by admin on Feb 5

Gluten-Free Italian Indulgence

Chef: Fortunato Nicotra, Executive Chef of Felidia in NYC

On February 1, 2012, I did day 5 of my internship at the James Beard House. It was the most interesting day for me thus far. First, I signed into the volunteer log book as usual. The log book has a column for the chef/event, for the volunteer’s name and signature, time in/out, and one for the volunteer’s school. I saw that another volunteer had already signed it and in the school column, it said “NG.” That meant Natural Gourmet. I haven’t seen another NGI student at JBH—most of the volunteers are either from ICE or FCI (Institute for Culinary Education and French Culinary Institute). When she walked back in, I introduced myself and found out that she graduated a couple of years ago and is now doing well with a catering and home-delivery business. (Shout out to Amy!) She lives in Western New York State and just happened to be in NYC this particular weekend and decided to volunteer.

Then, the chef and his crew arrived a short while later and as they came in, I immediately recognized one of them. She was another NGI alumnus, who graduated a few months ago, and I had helped out with her Friday Night Dinner. (Report on that FND HERE.) She interned at Felidia, which turned into a job. How about that for a coincidence? So, not only were there 3 NGI graduates there (when I was usually the only one), but one was a member of the chef’s crew, and I had actually worked on her Friday Night Dinner. I mean, I could have worked any Friday Night Dinner over the course of 11 months, and I happened to choose that person’s FND, and then encounter this person on a JBH shift of my choosing. What a small, weird world it is. (Shout out to Debbie!)

That was pretty cool. But my night became even more dramatic when, just prior to the guests arriving, two women walked in and leaned against the counter. Since all guests have to walk through the kitchen to get to the dining room, I really didn’t pay attention. I was busy spooning broccoli rabe into little shot glasses. I looked up briefly and one of the women smiled and said, “Hello.” I said, “Hello” and continued with my task. A moment later, I looked up again and it dawned on me that the other woman was Lidia Bastianich. I almost lost my broccoli rabe. Holy crap. Then I realized that the woman who had said “Hello” was her daughter, Tanya. And me without a camera! Doh!

They stood there and watched for a while as Amy and I helped the chef de cuisine (whose name I, unfortunately, missed) make little parfait hors d’oeuvres of ricotta, broccoli rabe, and saba. Lidia was watching me so I was as precise as I could possibly be. She and her daughter then went up to the private dining room and the rush of guests began.

I cut up burrata for a burrata and tomato salad. Burrata in Italian means “buttered,” and it is so named because it is made up of an exterior shell of mozzarella filled with a mixture of soft mozzarella and cream, making the texture buttery. I also sliced and speared salami with little wooden forks, dabbed homemade mustard with mustard seeds on them, and topped them with a homemade salsa of some sort (it looked like apple or pear and some root vegetables). I arranged them on a rectangular platter, the center of which Chef adorned with thinly shaved Grana Padano (my favorite grating cheese).

As usual, I didn’t get to sample everything because first priority is plating for the guests. If there’s anything left over, the staff gets to eat it. Unfortunately, there isn’t always food leftover, or it disappears before I get to grab some.

I absolutely wanted to try the Butternut Squash-Chocolate Ravioli with Butter-Sage Sauce, so I kept an eye on it. When all the servings were plated, there was plenty left for us, and I dove right in. The ravioli were absolutely divine. You would never have known that they were gluten-free. The dough was tender and fluffy, but firm enough to hold the filling, which was a delicious squash puree. The sauce was probably a thousand calories but it was luxurious. The tops of the ravioli got a generous dusting of ground pistachios. It was an extremely indulgent dish.

During the introduction/Q&A part of the evening (when everyone makes their appearance in the dining room for a round of applause from the guests), someone asked about the ravioli. Chef Fortunato talked about the process of coming up with a good gluten-free pasta that was superior to the stuff you find in the markets, but I don’t think he actually said what combination of flours they used. I think one of them was rice. I’d love to get my hands on the recipe. (Hint, hint, Chef Fortunato.)

I also tasted the beef duo of Braised Flatiron and Steak Tagliata, which were both tender and so flavorful, and I loved the Mashed Spinach and Potatoes. They were fluffy and smooth and delicious.

The cookie plates were adorable, and there were also little chocolate cakes adorned on the plate with a pistachio brittle that was worthy of a plate of their own. I never seem to be able to taste the ice cream at any of these dinners.

When dessert had been served, we were ushered up to the fourth floor, where Lidia and her guests awaited in the private dining room. I was so excited to be standing there in front of Lidia, who had obviously enjoyed the meal. The meal I helped plate! (Still getting over that.) On her way out a while later, she stated that everyone had done a great job. Of course, it was meant mostly for the main crew, but she did look at me, too, and I decided to bask in it anyway.

I truly wish I’d remembered my camera. My phone camera is completely inadequate. However, the evening’s official photographer is a great person. I had met her a couple of events ago and I will be asking her for photos of both events. I’ll put a link here when the photos are available.

I really, really need a new camera.

Menu

Hors d’Oeuvre

Beef Tartare
Burrata and Tomatoes with Balsamic Vinegar
Local Salami
Bagna Cauda with Vegetables
Ricotta, Broccoli Rabe, and Saba
Flor Prosecco NV

Dinner

Mediterranean Shrimp Salad with Toscanello Beans, Marinated Anchovies, and Tuna and Branzino Carpaccio
Bastianich Adriatico Friulano 2010

Butternut Squash–Chocolate Ravioli with Butter–Sage Sauce
Bastianich Vespa Bianco 2009

Vacche Rosse Parmigiano-Reggiano Risotto with Pear and Celery
Bastianich Vespa Bianco 2009

Beef Duo: Braised Flatiron and Steak Tagliata with Mashed Spinach and Potatoes and Braised Red Cabbage
Benanti Rovittello 2005

Poached Quince, Almond, and Frangipane Tart with Bourbon–Maple Syrup Ice Cream
Benanti Il Musico Moscato Passito NV

Assorted Cookies

posted by admin on Jan 30

Chef: Mitchell Kaldrovich, Executive Chef,, Cape Elizabeth,

Maine

Chef Kaldrovich had an interesting journey from his homeland of Argentina to the outskirts of Portland, Maine. If I remember the story correctly, he was born in Russia to a German father and Italian mother, grew up in Argentina, and worked in Argentina, Patagonia, Australia, and Lake Tahoe, where he met his future wife. When he attended a French culinary school in Argentina, he was introduced to the wonders of seafood. As he put it, the word “scallop” in Argentina brings to mind “a picture of the shell,” not the mollusk itself. He heard of lobster thermidor for the very first time and became acquainted with seafood cuisine. Then, while working at Lake Tahoe, he worked with Maine lobster, Maine shrimp, and other seafood that came from Maine, and he fell in love with it all. So, when he and his wife talked about where they wanted to live, Maine seemed the logical choice.

And, so, the menu that he presented at the James Beard House was a seafood menu infused with Argentinean influence. His roots show, even through ingredients that were not part of his world view while he was growing up.

I told him that I have roots in Argentina as well, in a roundabout way. My parents lived there for a number of years and my brother was born there. They didn’t come to the U.S. until he was about 6 years old. Consequently, my mother’s food was always Italian (of course) but accented with Argentinean preparations. Chef Kaldrovich said that Argentinean cuisine is partly Italian, anyway. That is true.

Lobster Empanada

While I am, admittedly, not the biggest seafood fan, I am fascinated by Argentinean cuisine, mostly because I ate it growing up without really knowing that I was eating it. It’s a lot like the way I enjoy picking out the Spanish words/phrases from the language I spoke at home—I had always just assumed was pure Italian, but after I took Spanish in school, I began to realize that what we spoke was actually more like “Italglish”—Italian, English, and Spanish. When I began doing research on Italian cuisine for my first cookbook, What, No Meat? Traditional Italian Cooking the Vegetarian Way, and international cuisines for my second book (not out yet), I saw the Argentinean influence in my mother’s cooking. I now enjoy picking out the Argentinean dishes and ingredients from the food I ate, which I assumed was purely Italian.

His Corn–Lobster Empanadas were delectable, and his lobster bisque was visually appealing with the squirt of lobster oil on top. The Malbec mustard was a condiment that I coveted (I’ll have to work on a recipe for that). He also made a vegetarian version of the Slow-Braised Beef Tripe Stew because he had received ahead of time a request for a couple of vegetarian plates (although, it became a chaotic string of last-minute requests for no dairy, no garlic, no fish). I tried it and it reminded me of a stew that seems to be universal around the world, differing in spices. The squash and the garbanzos and beans reminded me of North African Squash Stew, as well as Italian Squash and Bean Stew. It was beautiful to look at, but it also had a comforting, homey quality to it.

Personality-wise, I found Chef Kaldrovich to be really nice and he obviously loves what he does and loves being in the kitchen. And I think he loves to make his crew smile.

Bread Pudding

Here is the full menu, along with the wines that were served. More photos HERE:

Hors d’Oeuvre

Oysters
Lobster Bisque
Poultry Liver Crostini
Corn–Lobster Empanadas
Maine Crab and Apples on Endive
Il Faggeto Prosecco NV

Dinner

Fern Hill Farm Goat Cheese Croquette with Beet Tartare

Butter-Poached Lobster and Tender Gnocchi with Baby Turnips, Chantenay Carrots, and Tarragon Beurre Monté
Manos Negras Torrontés 2010

Slow-Braised Beef Tripe Stew with Pork Belly Confit, Sugar Pumpkin, Garbanzo and White Beans, and Sofrito
Lake Sonoma Winery Chardonnay 2010

Serrano-Wrapped Salmon Roast with Grilled Leek–Seaweed Stuffing, Confit Roots, Organic Quinoa, and Malbec Mustard
MacMurray Ranch Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 2009

Gaucho Mixed Grill > Grilled Dry-Aged Beef Strip Steak with Chimichurri, Herb-Roasted Sweetbreads with Balsamic Syrup, and Housemade Sausage with Salsa Criolla
Crios de Susana Balbo Malbec 2009

Caramelized Chocolate Bread Pudding with Dulce de Leche Gelato, Hazelnut Brittle, and Espresso Chantilly
Churchill’s 20-Year-Old Tawny Porto NV

posted by admin on Jan 20

Over the last two days, I did two 12-hours shifts at the James Beard House for my internship. Here’s my report.

Patina

The first night, I worked with the crew from Patina restaurant in Los Angeles, headed up by Chef Tony Esnault. Chef Esnault is a protégé of culinary legend Alain Ducasse, and earned his restaurant a four-star review in the Los Angeles Times.

The theme of the evening was Black Truffle Extravaganza. The nine different dishes that were executed all contained black truffles, including dessert. There were thousands and thousands of dollars worth of black truffles in that place. At $800 per pound, I would not be able to afford even one knotty fungi. Then, his truffle importer, Christopher Poron, brought in about 6 or 7 more pounds in a little cooler bag. These truffles were huge and very aromatic. I alone shaved and cut into little circles about $1,600 worth of the black fungus. I would say that people got their money’s worth.

Aside from shaving truffles, I picked 300 little leaves off celery, laid them out on a sheet pan, and brushed each one with egg wash. Talk about painstaking. They then put them in a low oven, where they crisped up into little chips.

It felt like I was working in a traditional French brigade kitchen. It wasn’t that all the cooks were formal or that Chef Esnault, a Frenchman, cracked the proverbial whip, but it just had that “French kitchen” vibe. And it seemed as if Chef Esnault is an old-school kind of chef who really has no use for a woman in the kitchen. [See comments below.] He wasn’t mean or rude to me; on the contrary, he was very polite to me—when he addressed me at all. I think he was just indifferent to me—I could have been there or not, he couldn’t have cared less. The only time this changed was when he yelled at me to hurry up and put these teeny, tiny little crispy celery leaves on top of these little celeriac squares and julienned celery. This was not easy. Trying to balance fragile little chips on top of a small cube AND a julienned celery is frustrating, especially when you have an assembly line going and the plates have to get out. I felt like Lucy on the assembly line at the chocolate factory. I actually thought that while I was doing it, and it made me chuckle.

It was a loooonnnggg day. We never got an official break and we didn’t get any food until after dinner service. I had to scoot away to sit down for a couple of minutes at a time and snack on a few of the food items I brought with me. I finally got out of there at about 10:30.

Here’s the menu:

 Hors d’Oeuvre
Sunchoke Velouté
Potatoes with Truffles
Vegetable–Truffle Roulades
Truffle Gougéres
Champagne Louis Roederer Premier Brut NV

Dinner
Duck Foie Gras with Poularde, Artichokes, Frisée, Mâche, and Truffle Vinaigrette
Spottswoode Sauvignon Blanc 2010

Glazed Seasonal Vegetable Mosaic with Black Truffle Condiment
Vogelzang Vineyard Reserve Viognier 2010

Seared Day Boat Scallops with Potatoes, Leeks, and Tuber Melanosporum
Pazo de Barrantes Albariño 2010

Milk-Fed Veal Tenderloin with Celery and Jus Truffé
Neyers Sage Canyon California Red 2010

Poached Pear with Brown Butter Cake and Black Truffle Ice Cream
Pavi Due Sorelle Vin Santo 2003

While I refused to sample the veal, everything I did taste was delicious.  My favorite part? The Vegetable Mosaic. Simply delicious. I wish I’d gotten a shot of it.

Blackberry Farm

The next day was a completely different experience. I worked with the chefs from Blackberry Farm in Walland, TN. The atmosphere was much more mellow and laid back. And I was so happy to see that one of the chefs was a woman. Another volunteer was also a woman, though she left at about 4. That’s not to say that they were lackadaisical about their work; on the contrary, they were so prepared that it left relatively little for the volunteers to do. We got a nice long break, which went a long way toward keeping up my energy level. But we did have things to do and once dinner service began, it was the usual adrenaline-rushed craziness of getting the plates out.

I had written about Blackberry Farm when I was Assistant Managing Editor at Travel Agent magazine because they do cooking classes on the premises. They grow their own food and have animals on the farm from which they get some of their meat and their eggs and make their own charcuterie. They also brought along a few black truffles, which had been plucked from the ground only hours before in (I believe) North Carolina. While the French truffles were, without a doubt, flawless, these locals truffles were more perfume-y and fresher tasting, which is understandable.

Chefs Joseph Lenn and Cassidee Dabney were a pleasure to work with, as they brought a sense of fun to the work. They take their business seriously, but it was clear that their attitude was that you should whistle while you work. I like that. If you have to do something all day long, it’s best to enjoy what you’re doing.

I peeled and quartered little baby red and golden beets from their garden, shucked oysters (not well), piped field pea puree onto little pieces of crisp rice thingies that they made themselves, sliced biscuits, and whatever else needed to be done. Another wonderful dinner.

The Blackberry Farm menu was:

Hors d’Oeuvre
Biscuits with Pork Belly, Blackberry Farm Preserves, and Pickles
Capers Blades Oysters with Muscadine Mignonette
Blackberry Farm Charcuterie
Carolina Gold Rice with Field Pea Purée
Domaine des Terres de Velle Auxey-Duresses 2009

Dinner
North Carolina Trout and Beet Salad with Watercress, Preserved Lemon, and Trout Roe
Domaine Saint-Marc Bois de Blagny Meursault 2009

Blackberry Farm Pencil Cob Grits with Sorghum, Benton’s Country Ham, Pickled Ramps, and Hollandaise
Domaine Alain Jeanniard Les Saussilles Pommard 1er Cru 2008

Guinea and Dumplings with Poached Egg and Black Truffles
Domaine Durieu Cuvée Traditionnelle Rouge Châteauneuf–du-Pape 2009

Roasted Lamb with Blackberry Farm Peas and Greens
Domaine Paillère & Pied-Gû Gigondas 2005

Blackberry Farm Blue Cheese Cheesecake with Pears and Pecans

More Photos HERE!

posted by admin on Jan 11

With everything going on the past couple of months—school, internships, exams, Friday Night Dinner, graduation—I haven’t had time to reflect on the closing of a Brooklyn institution: Aunt Suzie’s Restaurant. Aunt Suzie’s restaurant has been around for 25 years, and for those of us who are very particular about Italian food, it has been a reliable go-to place where you could always count on getting a good, affordable Italian meal. Aunt Suzie’s closed their doors permanently on January 1, 2012.

Because I grew up on Italian food, I know what constitutes a good Italian meal. I know what quality is and what authentic is. And because I am somewhat of a food historian (that means I’ve read a lot about the history of food, not that I have a degree in it or anything), I also know why certain dishes exist, how they came to be. This all makes me very, very picky about Italian food. Given a choice, I almost never choose to go out to an Italian restaurant. Most of them fall short of my standards. The majority of Italian restaurants are cookie-cutter versions of what people think Italians restaurants should be. The menus rarely vary: chicken Francaise, veal parmigiana, spaghetti with meatballs (NOT an authentic dish, by the way), shrimp marinara, baked ziti, etc. Not that there’s anything wrong with these dishes. They are often made in Italian-American homes and they make great comfort food. But it’s always the same from restaurant to restaurant. What’s worse is that some restaurants don’t even do them well. When one stands out, I take notice.

This is changing, however. The draw of eateries accessorized by checkered tablecloths, Chianti bottles with candles stuck in them, and drawings of big, fat chefs with cheesy mustaches, and punctuated by squeeze-box music coming through the speakers, is weakening. More and more people are looking for authentic ethnic cuisines, and ristorantes that boast authentic Italian cuisine are popping up all over the place with the mission of showing Americans what eating in Italy is really like. Some places shoot for gourmet Italian. Babbo, for example, Mario Batali’s eatery in Greenwich Village, showcases high-end, off-the-grid Italian food, such as Pig Foot “Milanese,” Chianti Stained Pappardelle with Wild Boar Ragu, and Deconstructed Osso Buco for Two with Saffron Orzo, Cavolo Nero and Chestnut Gremolata for a hefty $75. These types of places are where one goes for an “experience.”

Then there are places like Aunt Suzie’s, which offer more than the typical cookie-cutter menus but whose dishes are recognizable and agreeable to most people’s palates. These are the places one goes to for a good meal in comfortable setting. Aunt Suzie’s had the usual stuff that people expect, such as eggplant parmigiana and chicken marsala, but then there were the “outside the box” menu items that really highlighted the diversity of Italian cuisine. I’m not talking about anything that was especially unique to Aunt Suzie’s but that are unique to restaurants that want to offer something more.

For example, caponata is a pretty typical Italian appetizer, yet not many Italian restaurants have it on their menus. Aunt Suzie’s had it. Caponata is a sweet and sour relish-like dish that goes beautifully on crostini or focaccia. (Below is my recipe for caponata, as it appears in my cookbook, What, No Meat? Traditional Italian Cooking the Vegetarian Way.) They also offered dishes such as Salmon in Vodka Sauce, Brandy Orange Chicken, and Fresh Spinach Fettuccine in a tomato-mushroom sauce. One of my favorite items was the Honey Roasted Pear, Goat Cheese, and Walnut Salad served over mixed greens. This salad was sprinkled with toasted pine nuts and dressed with a light vinaigrette and was utterly divine.

One of the best things they offered was a plate of roasted pepper dip on the table with a variety of fresh breads. This stuff was addictive. The last time I was there was for a friend’s birthday and someone else at the table told me that I should buy the restaurant. I proclaimed that the only reason she wanted me to do that was so that I could keep the roasted red pepper dip coming. But I don’t have to go to that extreme—I got the recipe. HA! Well, the basic ingredients, anyway. I’ll be working on that.

I was never crazy about their style of service where plating was concerned, though. They often put sides, especially vegetables, in a separate plate, which always strikes me as cafeteria-style service. And they never took reservations, which was frustrating when someone wanted to plan and event (a birthday, anniversary, etc.) because you never knew how long you’d have to wait. Other than that, I really don’t have anything bad to say about the place. The servers were usually friendly and the portions were more than satisfying. Although I will say that a friend complained that the last couple of times that they ordered pasta, it was overcooked. Since I rarely order pasta in a restaurant (homemade “pillows” at Lidia’s Felidia being an example exception), I have no opinion on the matter.

Well, goodbye to Aunt Suzie’s. You will be missed.

Thank god L&B Spumoni Gardens is still around.

Caponata

Copyright © Roberta Roberti. All rights reserved.

3/4 cup olive oil
1 cup chopped onion
½ cup sliced celery
1 cup chopped fresh fennel
2 large garlic cloves, minced
1 small eggplant (about 1 pound), diced
3 small zucchini, scraped and diced
1 cup sliced mushrooms
2 large tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and diced
½ cup pimento olives, sliced
½ cup balsamic vinegar
3 teaspoons sugar
2 teaspoons salt
1/4 teaspoon black pepper

Heat the oil in a large pan over medium heat. Add the onion, celery, fennel, and garlic and sauté, stirring occasionally, until they are tender, about 7 to 10 minutes. Add the eggplant, zucchini, and mushrooms; cover the pan and cook until the vegetables are tender, about 10 minutes.

Add the tomatoes, olives, vinegar, sugar, salt, and pepper. Reduce the heat to low; cover the pan again and simmer 5 minutes. Increase the heat to high and bring the mixture to a boil. Remove it from the heat.

Transfer the mixture into a large bowl; cover and refrigerate until the caponata is thoroughly chilled, at least 3 hours. Allow it to come to room temperature before serving.

Store the caponata in a covered bowl (not aluminum) or plastic container in the refrigerator up to one week.

Makes 10 to 12 servings.

posted by admin on Aug 22

This year marks the 40th anniversary of Alice Water’s landmark restaurant, Chez Panisse. Located in Berkeley, California, Ms. Waters and her friends opened up the European-inspired bistro in 1971 on the premise that organically grown, local, seasonal products was the only way to eat. The first menu was: Pate en croute, canard aux olives, plum tart, café.The cost for this gourmet meal? $3.95.

The restaurant was way ahead of its time and Ms. Waters was, and is, at the forefront of a food revolution. Today, many restaurants—and home cooks—are chanting the same mantra. In 2007, Resaturant Magazine gave Alice Waters their Lifetime Achievement Award, and named her one of the most influential figures in American cooking over the past 50 years.

In honor of Chez Panisse’s ruby anniversary, an entire weekend of merry-making is planned, from August 26 to 28.

The dinners will be prepared and served on Saturday, August 27, 2011, in private homes throughout the Bay Area in support of the Edible Schoolyard project, which Alice Waters is involved with (click HERE for details on the project).

Well-known writer, China specialist and former Dean of the Graduate School of Journalism at UC Berkeley Orville Schell and his wife, filmmaker Baifang Liu, host a Roman dinner à la Chez Panisse in their Berkeley hills home. The meal will be prepared by Chez Panisse alumna Mona Talbott and Rome Sustainable Food Project alumni. Home to the cutting meadow for Chez Panisse Restaurant, the dinner will be held in the exceptionally beautiful wildflower and produce garden. $500 per person. This dinner is fully reserved, e-mail 40th@chezpanissefoundation.org to request that your name be added to the waiting list.

Sicilian Wild Boar Roast 

Discover the heart of San Francisco’s South of Market at artist and Blacksmith Angelo Garro’s Renaissance Forge. Dinner will be foraged and prepared by Angelo Garro and Chez Panisse alumna Melissa Fernandez. Co-hosted by Boz and Dominique Scaggs with special guest Davia Nelson of NPR’s Kitchen Sisters. $1500 per person. This dinner is fully reserved, e-mail 40th@chezpanissefoundation.orgto request that your name be added to the waiting list.

A Napa Garden Party

Supper under the fig trees with a wood-oven dinner from Chez Panisse cookbook authors Patty Curtan and Kelsie Kerr with Cowgirl Creamery’s Peggy Smith and Sue Conley. Featuring special guest Margrit Mondavi at the Napa home of Patty Curtan and Oxbow School Director Stephen Thomas. $500 per person. This dinner is fully reserved, e-mail 40th@chezpanissefoundation.org to request that your name be added to the waiting list.

Provençe in California

A Provençal-inspired meal by Traci Des Jardins served at the historic Plowman house in the Berkeley hills. Hosted by Ross Levy and Daphne Miller, author of The Jungle Effect, with special guest author Raj Patel. Wines will be provided by Scribe Winery and wildflower arrangements by artist Louesa Roebuck.  $500 per person. This dinner is fully reserved, e-mail 40th@chezpanissefoundation.org to request that your name be added to the waiting list.

Supper in the Pantry

Travel back in time to the era of hidden salons and supper clubs at this dinner of artists and art, hosted by Sam Hamilton and Jennifer Chaiken, in the illustrious San Francisco interior store MARCH. Tableware designed especially for the event, with hand-crafted breakfast pantry baskets especially prepared for each guest. Dinner will be roasted in the carriage house by Chez Panisse alum Brian Espinoza. $1,000 per person.  This dinner is fully reserved, e-mail 40th@chezpanissefoundation.org to request that your name be added to the waiting list.

Pig Roast!

Join us for a backyard pig roast at the home of Michael Pollan and Judith Belzer. Pitmasters Jack Hitt, Michael Pollan, and Chez Panisse alumna Samin Nosrat will slow cook a local, pastured hog over smoldering hickory for twenty-four hours preceding the event on site in Pollan’s yard. This is casual, backyard fare, folks. Dig in! $1000 per person. This dinner is fully reserved, e-mail 40th@chezpanissefoundation.org to request that your name be added to the waiting list.

¡Flamenco y Paella!

Spanish enthusiast, wine importer (Beaune Imports), and former Chez Panisse restaurant chef Michael Sullivan and Chez Panisse alum Anthony Sueuga prepare a giant Spanish Paella over the fire at this hand-crafted Berkeley hills home. Flamenco on the terrace overlooking the Bay. Hosted by Michael and Sylvie Sullivan at the home of Anthony and Daniella Sueuga. $500 per person. This dinner is fully reserved, e-mail 40th@chezpanissefoundation.org to request that your name be added to the waiting list.

Nose-To-Tail

San Francisco chef Chris Kronner, formerly of Bar Tartine, cooks up a carnivorous feast at the home of Jane White in North Berkeley. Hors d’œuvres in the garden with special guest, urban farmer and author Novella Carpenter. $500 per person. This dinner is fully reserved, e-mail 40th@chezpanissefoundation.org to request that your name be added to the waiting list.

Supper in a Jewel Box 

Sip champagne in the garden of the Russian Hill house of cookbook author and food writer Peggy Knickerbocker and Robert Fisher. Then on to a sublime Italian meal featuring fritto misto, pork tonnato, and wild-herb-wrapped salmon prepared by Chez Panisse Famille members Christopher Hirsheimer of Canal House Cooking, Niloufer Ichaporia King, and Peggy Knickerbocker. $500 per person. This dinner is fully reserved, e-mail 40th@chezpanissefoundation.org to request that your name be added to the waiting list.

Omedetai!

A Japanese dinner of fishes, plucked from the waters of Northern California. Sake and ume shu in the garden, followed by sashimi and simmered, pickled and fried dishes. In the Berkeley hills home and artists’ studio of Stephen Walrod and Lauren McIntosh of Tail of the Yak. Prepared by Chez Panisse alum Sylvan Brackett of Peko Peko catering and Tokyo’s Yuri Nomura. $500 per person. This dinner is fully reserved, e-mail 40th@chezpanissefoundation.org to request that your name be added to the waiting list.

Carciofi alla Giudia

A Roman Jewish meal prepared by Christopher Lee, former Chez Panisse downstairs chef, food historian and award winning author Joan Nathan and Jessica Theroux with guest chef Nancy Silverton. Danny and Hilary Goldstine host in their beautiful home, nestled in the Berkeley hills. With special guest Daniel Ellsberg. A Negroni toast in the garden with Alice Waters before dinner. $2000 per person. This dinner is fully reserved, e-mail 40th@chezpanissefoundation.org to request that your name be added to the waiting list.

Shrimp Boil!

A Shrimp Boil with Southern Star Scott Peacock at the home of Alice Waters. Alice and her daughter Fanny Singer will host a true Alabama style shrimp boil prepared by James Beard Award-winning chef Scott Peacock. Served in the garden, replete with boiling cauldrons and fried corn bread with sorghum syrup! Special performance of American folk songs by internationally acclaimed countertenor, David Daniels. $2000 per person. Thursday August 25th. This dinner is fully reserved, e-mail 40th@chezpanissefoundation.org to request that your name be added to the waiting list.

Alice Waters at Chez Panisse in 1975

To reserve a seat email 40th@chezpanissefoundation.org or call Krissa Nichols at 510-843-3800. For more information on the anniversary gala, visit the Chez Panisse anniversary site.

Happy Anniversary, Chez Panisse, and congratulations, Alice Waters, for daring to bring to America the concept of organic, fresh, and local cuisine. Brava!

posted by admin on Jul 11

Chicagoans, sadly, have had to say good bye to Trader Vic’s, the original tiki bar palace. The Chicago Tribune reported it on July 6. Victor Bergeron opened his Polynesian-themed restaurant in Oakland, CA, in 1936 and in 1944 created what would become the quintessential, iconic island drink: the Mai Tai.

The tiki concept, wildly popular in the 1940s through the 1960s, began a shame-filled descent into cheese-land and many of the Trader Vic’s locations have closed over the last several decades.However, it seems that tiki-themed restaurants and bars are returning to reclaim their cheesy glory!  There are 14 in New York City alone. And for you nostalgia-lovers out there, there are still Trader Vic’s restaurants to be found, from Sarasota, FL, to the United Arab Emirates, and even in Kiev, Ukraine, where it’s called the Mai Tai Lounge. For a list of locations, go to the Trader Vic’s website HERE. And I am not ashamed to admit that I own a copy of Trader Vic’s Tiki Party.

So, in honor of Trader Vic’s, as Chicago bids a sad aloha ‘oe to it, here is Trader Vic’s original Mai Tai recipe. Just in time for summer. Enjoy!

Trader Vic’s Original Mai Tai

2 ounces 17-year-old Jamaican rum
1/2 ounce orgeat (almond syrup)
1/2 ounce orange curacao
Juice of one fresh lime
1/4 ounce simple syrup*

Lime slice for garnish

Sprig of mint for garnish

1. Shake ingredients and pour into an ice-packed glass.
2. Garnish with lime and a sprig of mint.

Makes 1 serving.

*Simple Syrup

posted by admin on Mar 21

From March 21st to 31st, 2011, you have the chance to try out that restaurant you’ve been wanting to go to. During this week, you can get a 3-course prix fixe meals—$20.11 for lunch, $25 for dinner
(plus taxes, tips, and drinks, of course).  The biggest problem will be choosing from the long list of participating restaurants throughout Kings County. Check them out below.

Ready…Set… Pick!

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posted by admin on Jan 28

I have only a few days left before school starts and I’m pretty excited about it. I’m also waiting to see how I roll back into a curriculum. It’s been so long since I’ve been in to school, it will be interesting to see how I do. Next week, I’ll report on my first day and orientation. I’m sure I’ll be drowning in information. But on to the food.

Last night, I had dinner at Caravan of Dreams, an organic vegan restaurant. There was a time when labeling a restaurant “organic vegan” would have relegated that establishment to the “crunchy granola” crowd. Today, however, organic food is on the rise and “vegan” does not mean a slab of tofu on a bed of alfalfa sprouts chased with a glass of wheatgrass juice. Although you can still get that if that’s your pleasure, vegetarian cuisine has gone way beyond that.

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posted by admin on May 7

Hi, gang. Phew, now that I’m working again, it’s becoming a struggle getting my weekly blogs done. I missed last week but I’m going to try and be diligent from now on. No promises, though.

Anyway, this week, I’d like to talk about a great little restaurant I had the pleasure of visiting in Old Colorado City (part of Colorado Springs), Colorado. I’d first heard about this place in a magazine called Alegria Living Colorado Style, which focuses on certain counties in central Colorado. The restaurant is called Pizzeria Rustica, offering—what else?—pizza. But this is no ordinary pizzeria and the owner is no ordinary pizzaioulo.

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