mizchef

posted by admin on Dec 26

Question: What is tiramisú?

Hi, all. I hope everyone had a happy and fun holiday. And I hope that the gifts you all got were the meaningful kind, rather than the costly kind. Sometimes, those two things overlap, but far too often, people buy expensive gifts just because they’re expensive and not because they really mean something to the recipient. I know several couples who opted to make donations rather than send out Christmas cards and buy gifts. I know one family who sponsors needy families in other countries by buying important items for them. For example, last year they bought a goat through Heifer International. This year they bought a goat, a flock of chickens, and a flock of ducks. If you visit Heifer International, you can choose your gift and they send it to those who need them.

Anyway, for Christmas Eve dinner this year, I decided to make tiramisú. Not just any tiramisú—raspberry tiramisú. I don’t know what it is but if you add the word “raspberry” to anything, it suddenly transforms into something wonderous and it seriously piques people’s interest. Well, it’s understandable. Raspberries are an incredibly delectable fruit—sweet, tart, delicate, and bold all at once. Furthermore, if you give whatever it is you’re making with raspberries a French name, it’s sounds totally sexy. So, my tiramisu becomes Tiramisú alla Framboise. Doesn’t that sound sexy?

What particular raspberry substance made my tiramisú alla Framboise? Raspberry preserves or raspberry sauce? Nope. Just plain ol’ fresh raspberries. Did I fold them into the cream or add them in some special sequence? Nope again. All I did was make a layer of raspberries on top of the second layer of ladyfingers, then covered them with the mascarpone cream. It was really quite simple, but it elevated this dessert to a new height. It really was the hit of dinner.

Since New Year’s Eve is coming up and some of you may be bringing dessert to a party somewhere, I’m sharing with you my recipe for raspberry tiramisú…oh, I mean Tiramisú alla Framboise. The recipe comes from my cookbook, What, No Meat? Traditional Italian Cooking the Vegetarian Way. Here’s the accompanying info about this Italian specialty from the book:

Tiramisú, literally meaning “pick me up,” originated in the region of Tuscany, which is why it is sometimes called “Tuscan Trifle.” The original creation was created in the city of Siena to impress the visiting Grand Duke Cosimo de’Medici III in the late 1600s. The dessert was dubbed Zuppa del Duca, “Duke’s Soup.” The Duke liked it so much, he took it back with him to Florence. Florence was a Mecca for English artists and intelligentsia and it was this group that took a particular liking to it. Thus, the dessert came to be known as Zuppa Inglese, “English Soup,” which still exists to this day.

The switch to mascarpone cheese was recent. Mascarpone is a triple-cream cheese made from low-fat fresh cream. The cows are fed special grass that is combined with herbs and flowers, making it buttery and creamy. The name mascarpone is attributed to a 16th-century Spanish official who, while visiting Italy, tried some and remarked to the cheese-maker, “Mas que bueno” (“better than good”). However, others believe it comes from the word mascherare, “to dress up or disguise,” referring to the manufacturing process, which might explain why it is sometimes spelled mascherpone, related to the word masquerade. Still other theories say that it comes from the dialect words for ricotta, mascherpa and mascarpia. Make sure the mascarpone is fresh; it is crucial to the flavor. If you cannot find mascarpone, try pastry cream, ricotta, cottage, or cream cheese, softened and whipped until smooth (it won’t be the same, but good anyway). Regarding the ladyfingers, I use one particular brand that is crunchy; however, in most cases, ladyfingers are spongy and soft. Both will work fine. As for the cream, since it is not cooked, I recommend using pasteurized eggs.

The name tiramisú, it is said by some, comes from the theory that Venetian women would make this dessert the night before laundry day so that a pick-me-up was ready for them when the washing was done. But one of the best stories in culinary history has to be the one that tells us that the name tiramisú was coined by Venetian prostitutes who needed a pick-me-up in between their engagements. Whether this is true or not, I suppose doesn’t matter. As long as it made its delicious way to us.

Tidbit: The world’s largest tiramisú was created at the Cafè Venezia in Marktheidenfeld, Germany, on May 24, 2003. It weighed an incredible 476.1 lbs.

(the above information is copyrighted material)

Give it a try and let me know how it turns out.

Okay, everyone. Have a safe, healthy, happy, and fun New Year. If you’re traveling and plan on indulging in some coquito, make sure you have a designated driver. I hope 2010 brings good fortune to us all—especially to those of us who really need a little luck.

Peace.

Raspberry Tiramisu (or Tiramisú alla Framboise)

½ cup strong coffee

2 tablespoons brandy

2 tablespoons coffee liqueur

4 eggs, at room temperature, separated

1 cup sugar

1 pound mascarpone

32 ladyfingers

2 pints fresh raspberries

2 cups bittersweet or semisweet cocoa

In a small bowl, combine the coffee, brandy, and coffee liqueur and set aside.

With an electric mixer, beat the egg yolks and half of the sugar on medium-high speed until it is thick, about 3 to 4 minutes. Add the mascarpone and beat until it is well blended, about 3 minutes; set aside.

Wash and dry the beaters well. In a clean bowl, beat the egg whites on medium-high until soft peaks form, about 4 to 7 minutes. Add the remaining sugar and beat on high until stiff peaks form, about 3 to 4 minutes. In 3 or 4 additions, fold the egg white mixture into the cheese mixture. Divide this mixture into 2 equal parts.

Place a layer of ladyfingers, side by side, on the bottom of a 9 x 13-inch glass casserole dish (break 1 or 2, if necessary, to fill the gaps). Generously brush the ladyfingers with the coffee mixture with a pastry brush. (If you don’t have a pastry brush, dip one side of the ladyfingers into it. Don’t soak the ladyfingers in it or they will turn to mush.) Spread one portion of the cheese mixture evenly over the ladyfingers. Smooth it out with a flat spatula or the back of a spoon. Make another layer of ladyfingers and brush them with the coffee mixture. Spread the fresh raspberries as evenly as possible over the ladyfingers, then carefully spread another layer of cheese over the raspberries, smoothing it out. Sift the cocoa over the entire top. Cover the dish with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 4 hours or overnight before serving.

Cut the tiramisú into 2 or 3-inch squares and serve with a cup of coffee and a ladyfinger or a chocolate roll on the side.

Store tightly sealed in the refrigerator up to 5 days. It can be frozen up to 6 weeks.

(The above recipe is copyrighted material. Do not reprint in any format without express written permission.)